The City of Lights

There are a lot of adjectives you can use to describe Paris. The “City of Lights” is probably the most fitting to set it apart from all the other great cities of the world. Yes, there are other cities that are historical, beautiful, romantic, vibrant, and even confusing, and cold. But it is how Paris transforms itself at night that truly makes this a magical City. No where else have I ever seen people converge on any given night just to see a large metal structure be illuminated. I am speaking, of course, about the Eiffel Tower and the nightly ritual that attracts visitors and locals alike to welcome in each evening. There are couples sharing a bottle of wine, families walking around the plaza and gardens, hordes of tourists taking pictures from every angle, and regular Parisians that go just a bit out of their way on the commute home from work to catch a glimpse of this most iconic structure as it transforms from a dull rust color to a glowing golden beacon for this City. I wasn’t working here, so I only fit into the first three categories.

Arriving in Paris was just like the several other large Cities we had been previously visited. A large rail station packed with people from every walk of life and demographic background; there for any countless number of reasons; usually trying to get past you to go somewhere else. Paris begins to set itself apart as you exit the Metro and gaze over the Seine River with Notre Dame to your right and the Louvre Museum to your left. By waiting to book our accommodations, we had once again lucked out and were able to find a hotel right on the Seine in between these two and at greatly reduced prices. The first day was going to be the walking tour, and we definitely made the rounds. We went to Notre Dame and toured both the inside of the Cathedral and around the perimeter of this magnificent building. The power of the Church and Man’s dedication to his religion never ceases to impress me. We then headed down the river and towards the Louvre. After a lot of discussion, we had decided not to go in because the place can be so overwhelming, and it deserves to be appreciated at a slower pace. We instead walked through the main courtyard, past I.M. Pei’s glass entry pyramids, and out onto the formal gardens that stretch down the Champs Elysees towards the Arc de Triumph. After a well- deserved break for lunch, we walked across the river and directly under the Eiffel Tower. We had hoped to go to the top, but about two thousand other people had the same idea, and we just couldn’t bring ourselves to stand in such a long line. Instead we just meandered underneath it, and then walked down the formal gardens that stretch out towards the south that provide some of the best views.

That night we went to the Latin Quarter in search of a classic fondue dinner. The Latin Quarter is packed with tourist shops, bars, and restaurant offering every kind of cuisine. We found a nice little place on the main walk and feasted on both beef and cheese fondue. The boys had first hoped for fondue dessert but as we were looking for restaurants, we came across a vendor who was making fresh crepes filled with a variety of treats, and they quickly changed their minds. If you look on “Where are the Reeve boys”, you can see them in Crepe Heaven completely enjoying their Nutella and banana treats. They quickly slipped into a food coma and so we dropped them off back at the hotel while Sally and I went out for a nightcap. Strolling hand in hand through the quaint neighborhoods filled with countless cafes will make anyone a romantic and having time to just talk between ourselves is always a treat.

The next day was going to be a bit more of culture but on more of a grand scale. We took the train system out to Versailles to tour the grand palace and massive grounds of King Louis XIV. Even though we got here within an hour of it opening, the place was already packed, and we found ourselves wanting to quickly move through the palace and get out to the grounds for some breathing room. We enjoyed the Palace and its dozens of ornately decorated rooms, but after awhile it all starts to looks the same. Heading out to the grounds, we came across a new offering – Golf Cart Rentals. Check out the pic on “Planes, Trains,…” Yes, you now can rent golf carts and roam around the grounds of Versailles. It comes complete with audio guide and classical music, which turned up all the way up completely embarrassed Mat.

“Dad, everybody is looking at us..”, he said with all the anguish a fifteen year old can express.

I replied in my most regal voice, “Yes son, those are the little people, and we shouldn’t acknowledge them or they begin to feel bad that they have to actually walk around the grounds...”

It was actually very fun, and I did my best not to bring attention to us. Yeah, fat chance.. I found a vendor who sold wine by the bottle, and we were off for an hour of classical history class like I have never had before. I managed to get the golf cart back on time and without damage, and we all enjoyed seeing a lot more of this palatial estate then we would have ever seen just walking. That evening we ventured back down to the Eiffel Tower to watch the sunset and the nightly illumination of this icon. Check out pic on “Sunset of the Day. Mat and Charlie opted out of a formal dinner so we fetched them their new favorite – chicken gyros and let them enjoy a meal in the hotel. Sally and I slipped out to the neighborhood and found a quiet little place to enjoy our last meal in this wonderful city. Paris still has a bit of a “snobby” perception, but the times Sally and I have been here, we have thoroughly enjoyed the City and everyone we have met. The next day we were off early to catch the high speed train through the Chunnel and into London. Looking forward to being in English speaking countries again. Hail to the Queen!

There is Nothing Like Family

To get to Barcelona would require twenty-six hours of travel and seven different trains, but it was so worth it. I booked an overnight train from Switzerland to Barcelona, but had to settle for a single four person cabin instead of 2 - two person cabins. Luckily, we had experienced tight family spaces before in the “Jerky Cabin” mobile home in New Zealand, but it didn’t compare to the “Cabon de Jercquie” we had to endure through France. As you can see in the pictures, it was extremely tight, but we made the best of it and managed to laugh a lot about this “less than stellar” accommodation. Sally kept telling the boys “It’s only one night in the entire trip.” We arrived in Barcelona the next morning and were met by David who took us back to his neighborhood where we would be staying. Blanca had given us a rental agency that manages apartments in their area, and we were able to book a nice apartment in the high rise across the street from theirs. When we went to check, they realized David and Blanca lived here and offered to upgrade us to an apartment in the building directly next to them, and it was the Penthouse!! I’m not just talking top floor of a sixteen story high rise. But the Penthouse unit which was two floors, 4 bedrooms and three baths.. It had sweeping views of the entire city of Barcelona and a two story glass façade over looking the Mediterranean. Hey Now!! Sally and I could only laugh as we walked through this gorgeous unit and realized the day before we had spent over twenty four hours in a space smaller then one of the bathrooms of this puppy. After unpacking and running around the place for awhile, we headed over to the Vedura’s for a family dinner.

This would be only the third time we have had the chance to spend time with family in the four months away and it meant a lot. Being on the road so long and in some many different places/countries makes you really appreciate a having a strong family. We haven’t seen David and his family for a few years, so all of the boys have changed a lot since the last meeting. Even though they really don’t remember each other, the boys took to each other immediately, and it was fun to watch them play and just be kids. Our boys have certainly had fun over the last four months, but it has been so busy with so many new places that they haven’t really had a chance to just play. Needless to say, they all got extremely wound up and played themselves to sleep.

The next day we spent exploring the old town of Barcelona and having a traditional Spanish family lunch with lasts for about two hours. It is one of those meals that you plan for and not eat too much for breakfast, so you make the most of the afternoon feast. David reserved us a table at a well known restaurant near the waterfront and helped us through the menu. The specialty of the house was a Paella or rice dish that is cooked in the ink of squid and mixed with other seafood. The rice is black and very salty but the dish is delicious. After lunch we strolled the streets, checking out the unique shops, local sights, and mandatory Gelato stops. Our plan was to go out for an adult dinner and let Mat oversee the “Rat Pack”, but just relaxing in their home with tapas, and reliving past family reunions was all we needed for a memorable night. The kids passed out together and we didn’t leave until after 2:00 AM. The next day Charlie went to a school function for Matei at a local farm, and Mat, Sally, and I just walked along the nice waterfront and had a leisurely lunch. We got back together with everyone that afternoon and then left for another overnight train to Paris. One more “Cabon de Jercquie” to endure before we reach the City of Lights.

We would really like to thank David, Blanca, David, and Matei for being such great hosts and sharing such a wonderful family time with us. We really enjoyed our time with you in Barcelona and hope to see you this summer in Va. Beach for the next Weatherford family reunion.

Garmisch - Winter Wonderland

Even though our trip has been billed as the “Endless Summer Adventure”, I couldn’t help but want to get on the snow while in Germany. The boys have never had the chance to snowboard, and it would be a shame to be here and not give it a go. Arriving in Innsbruck, Austria started our mountain time off right. As soon as we got off the train, it started snowing. The hotel was supposedly only 400 yards from the station, so I decided we could walk instead of getting a cab. Well, the four hundred yards turned into a half mile, and my travel companions were not really happy with my decision. None of us were happy about the walk, but we all were elated over the snow, of which we were totally covered by the time we reached the hotel. After checking in and warming up, we redressed for the weather and headed out to see old Innsbruck. Innsbruck is the ideal version of a “Bavarian” town and you feel like you are in an old movie walking by all the shops with their wooden toys and Leaderhausen. Since our destination was Garmisch, Germany, we only stayed one night but enjoyed our time here.

We caught the 9:30 AM train to Garmisch, and the trip over the mountain pass/border was incredible. The upper mountains had gotten about 1 ½ feet of snow, and it looked like the perfect “Winter Wonderland” complete with alpine chalets and stunning mountain peaks. The sun was shining when we pulled into Garmisch, but it was only about 15 degrees. This time, I didn’t even think of mentioning walking to the hotel; I just hailed the first cab I saw. I try not to make the same mistake twice!!! We had gotten here so early that our apartment wasn’t ready yet, so we decided to head out and see if we could line up some snowboard gear and lessons. We were stoked to find out that we had free bus passes while staying here and thought that getting to the mountain would be simple as “apple strudel”. Have I mentioned that I don’t speak/understand German?? After ten years in Costa Rica, I can usually figure out what I want to say and what someone’s reply is. I can also fake Italian and French pretty good, but no so much with German. The words don’t look at all familiar and when they talk, I couldn’t tell you if they’re welcoming me to their country or telling me to get off the grass. Needless to say I didn’t fully understand what the receptionist what telling me about which bus to take, but we ended up taking ALL the buses because they kept going everywhere except where we needed to go. We actually crisscrossed town twice trying to find the right area to go to, only to find out that it was right in front of the hotel and within walking distance. Oh well, at least I can say that we saw ALL of Garmisch. By this time, the boys and Sally were starting to question my “Tour Guru” status, but I told them not to fear; we would find what we needed and be on the snow TODAY. They put their fears to rest and agreed on one more try. I finally hit paydirt, but it cost me.

We finally found the right spot and walked in, ready to go. We had not packed sufficient winter gear, so we had to buy such basics as long underwear and gloves, but I was hoping we could rent snowboard clothes, as well as, snowboards, boots, and helmets. The clerks must have seen me coming, because as I was frantically looking for the right size, a lovely old lady came up and asked if she could help. Next thing I know (and $600 later), we were strolling out of the shop on our way to a private snowboard lesson, looking “sweet” in our new gear and BMW snowboards. I couldn’t help but think of Jim Carrey and the scene from “Dumb and Dumber” when they pile out of their new car in Aspen with all the best ski clothes on. “Aspen… where the women flock like the salmon to Capestrano!!” We have watched that movie so much on this trip, that not a day goes by that one of us doesn’t recite a line from it. Anyhoo, back to the story.

The snowboard instructor was a nice young German guy who spoke English and was very good with the boys. They had never tried this before, but picked it up really fast due to their time surfing and skateboarding. I hadn’t snowboarded in about fifteen years, when I almost destroyed my ankle in Utah and was not sure if I still had it in me. Luckily, it’s just like riding a bike, and we were all enjoying ourselves by the end of the day. Sally had opted out of trying to learn to snowboard on “Such Short Notice” and graciously offered to head back to the hotel and check us in and unpack everyone. We stayed on the mountain until it closed and then enjoyed a true ‘apres ski’ with hot chocolate and German drafts at the base station bar. We snowboarded the next two days and really had fun. Snowboarding is one of those sports that once you get the basics, you quickly get to a point where you enjoy yourself. Not to say that we didn’t have our falls. After two days, we were all pretty sore but very happy. At night, we would walk around the Town Square, window shop, and try out the local cuisine.

Our next stop would be Munich, Germany for a day and then on to Barcelona, Spain where we planned to visit Sally’s cousins for a few days. To get there would require twenty six hours on seven different trains!!

Our time in Munich was way to short but we tried to see a few different things. Our first day I decided to make our way out to the Dachau Concentration Camp and give the boys a real world history lesson. I had first seen this memorial/museum twenty years ago, and it still haunts me. Dachau was not the worst concentration camp, by far, but it still was responsible for the deaths of tens of thousands of innocent people. We were able to see the twenty minute movie they have on the history of the camp, and it is a very harsh image of the cruelty of man, yet the humanity and hope that persevered during such horrendous times. After about an hour of touring the grounds and seeing the exhibits, we were all very moved and depressed. A parent never wants to depress their children, but life and the history of mankind has not always been pretty, and we should be open and honest about it so that we never diminish the value of humanity.

To shake off our blues, we headed to the center of Munich and in search of the funnest spot in town – The Hofbrauhaus. Beer may have been around before the Germans, but they perfected it. In fact, it was in this area that the first purity laws were written to establish the proper protocol for the brewing of beer. The Hofbrauhaus was one of the first licensed breweries, and it dates back to 1489. Not a bad run for a beer joint. It is pretty touristy but who doesn’t love a good Ompah band and a plate full of sausages!! We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves and went to bed fat, dumb, and happy. We left early the next morning for Barcelona in a severe snow storm. Even though it was going to be a long day of trains, it’s great to not have to worry about driving or traffic conditions. We were all very excited about getting to Barcelona and seeing Sally’s cousin David Verdura, Blanca, his wife, and two sons, David and Matei.

The Old Country

We began our tour of Europe with a few days in Athens, Greece. It wasn’t the best time of year to explore the islands, so we decided to stay right in the heart of old Athens (Plaka) within walking distance of the major sites. We really enjoyed exploring the Acropolis and its newly opened museum, as well as, Zeus’ temple, Adrian’s Arch, and the fun shopping/restaurant district in Plaka. We also met up with my good friend Tommy Mathas’ cousin (Dimitri) one night for drinks. It was great talking with someone new and getting the world perspective from someone living and working in Europe. We are not alone in the financial crisis, and Amercia may be better off then a lot of the European countries from what I hear and see on the news over here.

We then fly to a place that is near and dear to my heart, Naples, Italy and the Amalfi Coast. I was lucky enough to have a chance to live and work here twenty years ago, and I was really eager to show Sally and the boys how fun and crazy Italy can be. We rented a car in Naples and drove the fifty miles down to the Amalfi Coast and then took the slow but amazing drive down the coastline to the historic town of Amalfi. It is so incredible that a road could be built into the mountainside like it is, as well as, all the houses that are literally clinging to the side of cliffs. And then there is the food. Southern Italy is known worldwide for incredible food. The pizza was invented here and the best cheese in the world comes from Naples. It is called Mozzarella de Buffala. It is mozzarella cheese made from the milk of the water buffalo. Now I know that doesn’t sound too appetizing when you look at a water buffalo, but they make some sweet cheese. Mix it with some fresh Roma tomatoes, procuitto ham, basil, some Italian bread, and a little olive oil and you can’t go wrong. Needless to say that I ate my fair share of the cuisine and drank a bit more than my share of the cheapest red wine I could find. People love to order expensive wine thinking its better, but the best red wine I have ever had has never been over ten dollars a bottle.
We spent two nights on the Amalfi, just wandering around and enjoying a culture that dates back to the first millennium. On the way back to Naples we stopped by Pompeii and explored the incredible ruins that have been uncovered and restored. The boys were really impressed with the archaeology and the story about Mt. Vesuvius erupting in 79 AD and totally entombing an entire town; people literally frozen in place by the volcanic ash and gases that rained down on them. We had hoped to climb Mt. Vesuvius but the weather was too cloudy for any good views, and we were eager to get to Rome so we went back to Naples and started our Eurail portion of our journey.

Americans are so car focused that we never installed a rail system similar to Europe’s, and we are really missing out on a great way to travel. When I was working in Italy in 1989, I finished my time with a month long Eurail Pass and fell in love with train travel. It was so convenient to just jump on a train and go somewhere. You can get to any town and quickly figure out their metro/bus system and get anywhere you want to go. Our itinerary was to head north to Rome, then on to Venice, over the Alps to Munich, through Switzerland, over to Barcelona, up to Paris, and through the Chunnel to London. We would then end our time with a few days in Ireland before flying home. Our first stop would be Rome, a city so steeped in history that around every corner is a building, monument, or church that is worthy of study. Hail Caesar!!


Rome Sure Wasn't Built in a Day

We weren’t on the train for more than thirty minutes before the boys were in love with train travel. I had booked first class tickets for our Eurail Passes, so not only did we get nice big reclining leather seats, but they brought the goodie cart to us, and it was free. Trains are so much better than planes because there is substantially more room in them, you can basically pick your own seat, you can get up and move around anytime you want, there are very few delays in trains departing/arriving, and if the engines fail, you just coast to a nice stop. The express train got us from Naples to Rome in under two hours, and the boys were bummed the trip was over. We were able to find a nice hotel right near the Trevi Fountain, which made it very convenient to walk to all the best sites. The first afternoon we walked to the Trevi Fountain, and the Coliseum but the interior was already closed for the day. That evening we went to the Spanish Steps and did some shopping, as well as, some gelato tasting!! The best part of southern Italy is just people watching. A lot of the areas are pedestrian malls and they are teeming with people going about their daily lives, as well as, talking and smoking a lot.

The next day we started early trying to see the best sites before the crowds got too bad. The biggest challenge was getting in the Sistine Chapel before the lines became unbearable. We got there just after it opened and were able to walk directly through the Museum right to the chapel. We kind of felt guilty not spending more time in the museum, but there are just so many artifacts you can see before your eyes glaze over. I have always been a fan of Michelangelo’s, and I got to see the Sistine Chapel and his famous paintings when I was here twenty years ago. At that time they were doing restoration work on it and the entire room was filled with scaffolding so you really couldn’t get a feel for the entire frescos. The restoration is completely done now and the space is so amazing. Sitting on the benches that ring the room and gazing up on such a masterpiece just leaves you speechless, just to imagine how he laid on his back, high atop scaffolding, and painted for four straight years, working by himself…all in the name of God and Church. I bought a short book on his life from the Vatican bookstore and read it on the way to Venice. It was surprising to read that he was quite conflicted in his own spirituality and you can follow his inner turmoil through his work and the different methods or impressions that different works portray. The biggest example is in the Sistine Chapel. Years after he finished the ceiling fresco, he was commissioned to paint the Final Judgement on one of the walls. The entire work is in sharp contrast to the ceiling which portrays people in a very ethereal manner. All the characters in the Final Judgement are very harsh in their portrayal, and it was meant to cast a less than perfect light on people. This work corresponds with a time that he was going through great inner turmoil, questioning his own belief and the role of the Church.

From the Sistine Chapel, we walked to the St. Peter’s and toured the Basilica. This is one of the most impressive spaces I have ever been in. I am not very religious, but this holy ground makes you believe in a bigger purpose and man’s dedication to his faith. What really impresses me is the Engineering and Construction techniques there were mastered so long ago. To look at this building and realize that it was built not just without big machinery, but even without electricity is amazing. It is one thing to stack three million large blocks into a pyramid, but to build something like the Basilica is truly amazing. To get up close and personal with the building, we climbed the three hundred and some steps up to the top of the Basilica’s cupola (dome). There is a staircase built within the roof itself and it spirals all the way to the top, with amazing views of St. Peter’s Square, The Vatican property, and all of Rome. Later that day, we went back to the Coliseum and did a two hour self guided tour of the interior, complete with audio guide. The thought of ancient battles in this space complete with wild animals and large movable sets with sixty thousand in attendance really impressed the boys. After another fun night on the town in Rome, we headed north for Venice.

We only spent two nights in Venice, but walked plenty. The great thing about Venice is its fun to get lost while trying to get somewhere because you eventually find your way and see some neat things along the way. We checked out the major landmarks like the Rialato Bridge and St. Mark’s Square and even found a small jazz club which was playing Brazilian Jazz. Originally our next stop was going to be Munich, Germany and then train to Garmisch for a few days of snowboarding, but I found a way to go directly to Garmisch if we went through Innsbruck, Austria. So we packed our bags and jumped a train to Austria for the night, simple as that. Train travel is so fun. Next blog will be Garmisch – Winter Wonderland.

Rockin' The Casbah!!

We had an overnight flight from Johannesburg, South Africa to Cairo, Egypt and arrived at 5:40 AM. We were met by our guide, Hend Harb, and our driver. Due to the tense situation Americans still have in this part of the world, I felt that having a fully organized tour would be more enjoyable and less concerning. I was introduced to Hend through our Airtreks ticket agent, and she turned out to be a jewel. Not only did she provide great personal service, but she did a wonderful job in arraigning all the different activities, and staying in constant communication, even when she wasn’t with us. Instead of staying in a typical tourist hotel in Cairo, I had booked an apartment in the heart of Giza overlooking the Great Pyramids. We were the only non-Egyptians I saw in the neighborhood, and walking around really gave us a real cultural experience (or shock depending on the situation). We headed to the Great Pyramids and the Sphinx the first morning and spent about two hours walking around and learning about the history of the different dynasties. The highlight of the morning was our camel ride in the desert with the pyramids in the background. That evening we went back for the sound and light show at the Pyramids and then enjoyed an authentic Egyptian dinner, including stuffed pigeon!!!

Camping with Charlie-eb

The next morning we headed off for an overnight camping safari into the White Desert in the Bedouin Territory. I thought this was only going to be a short trip out of Cairo. Little did I know that it would end up being an eleven hour drive until we finally reached our camp, at which point we were in the middle of Egypt, halfway to Libya. We knew we were in a different land when we pulled up to the only “Rest Stop” which was located halfway into the desert. It was the only building in site, and it was quite the sight to be seen. It looked like everything else around it had been blown up and all the debris left on its property. Sally declared it the most “disgusting” place she has ever had to “rest” and vowed never to use Public Facilities again. The remote location was only the beginning of the adventure… After several hours, we reached the Bedouin Oasis where our taxi was to drop us off with our tour company. We were booked with a local Bedouin company who run these trips and don’t speak much English. My Arabic is pretty rusty (to say the least), but I did manage to figure out that I should have brought our passports with us. Being a naive American, I had left them safely in our apartment in Giza, not realizing we were going to be in another region and that Americans are considered very “important” here. We are supposed to have our locations tracked by the Tourism Police, in case we accidentally went missing!! Since we couldn’t give them our Passports to record, we had to take along a Tourism Police Officer, who would be our security escort for the next twenty-four hours. It was pretty funny to watch this guy casually walk out of the Tourism Office with a small backpack and a machine gun around his neck and pile into the vintage Land Cruiser with us and our Bedouin guides. The boys were pretty impressed that we had our own bodyguard and that he was packing a MP5K!! They kept trying to sneak a picture of his “heat” when he wasn’t looking. He didn’t speak English, so I couldn’t ask if he would pose with the boys and his gun.

About an hour outside of the Bedouin Oasis, we turned off the paved road and into the barren desert. We quickly felt like we were in the middle of nowhere and that we could easily come across folks that were not very happy to see Americans. Did I mention that we were halfway to Libya?? Luckily, everyone we met was very nice and enjoyed talking to us with whatever English they knew. We drove into the desert for about two hours and realized that our driver was the Bedouin version of Dale Earnhart, Jr. He only knew how to drive fast, no matter the situation. Whether it was overtaking other vehicles on the road going around blind curves at 90 MPH or racing down a sand dune that was over a hundred feet tall …, he went fast. The other guide and the bodyguard didn’t look worried, so I assumed he knew what he was doing. By the time we reached our camp site, it was almost dark and a ferocious sand storm had come up. It was as bad as any snow storm I have been in with visibility less than ten feet. As this point, I thought that sleeping out in the desert wasn’t going to be as fun as I first thought and was wandering how we were going to get dinner made, since we had no shelter. The Bedouins are a very resourceful bunch as it turns out. They arranged their vehicle with another one to form a wind break and then unrolled and secured their Bedouin rugs to form walls. This created a very nice shelter to eat and sleep in. Thankfully, the wind died off just before dinner and the night became beautiful with countless stars and no one else around. As you can see from these pictures, Charlie got into full Bedouin mode and spent all night hanging out with the guides (and bodyguard) around the fire, even trying their local tea. It turned out to be a very pleasant night of camping, and Sally was quite the trooper, since she was the only girl. The next morning we broke camp and did a slow drive out through all of the interesting formations that are in the White Desert. This area used to be under the ocean millions of years ago and the deposits that were left over from when the sea receded have formed very interesting pillars and outcroppings. From there it was a hair raising drive back to the Bedouin Oasis to drop off our body guard and switch to a regular van taxi and then another four hours back to Giza. That night we all enjoyed nice long showers, trying to remove the sand that had found its way into every imaginable crevice.

The next day we toured the historic churches, mosques, and synagogues. It is interesting to note that all three of these religions are still practiced in Egypt and that Christianity and Judaism predate Islam here. As the rest of the world still struggles to find a way for these three religions to get along, it is somewhat optimistic to see that they coexist here. OK, that’s my two cents worth on world politics and religion, now back to the story.

Later that day we toured the Egyptian National Museum and the largest collection of artifacts and mummies in the world. The most impressive section was King Tutankhamun’s jewlry display found in his burial chamber. It was staggering to see the amount of gold and precious stones that were assembled and crafted in the seventy days they had to plan his funeral. The entire room glowed because there was so much gold in there. P Diddy and the rest of the nouveau riche have nothing on the Egyptians when it comes to Bling!! The afternoon ended with a boat ride on the Nile river in a classic Egyptian Dow. For our last evening, we booked a Nile River Dinner Cruise. These are pretty touristy but the two hours were very fun, and we even made a new “Friend Along the Way”, Yeah Baby!! It was the first time we had seen classic Egyptian dancing and the whirling dervishes were almost as good as the belly-dancer.

We were all due to fly out the next morning, but only my brother made it out. Due to the world financial crisis, Greece is in deep debt and the government is being forced to make huge budget cuts in order to appease the rest of the Euronations. This means cuts to all public employees, so they decided to strike the day we were scheduled to fly into Athens. This shut down the airport, stranding anybody trying to come in or out of Greece. Luckily I found out about it the night before and was able to arrange another night in our apartment. It actually turned out for the best because we all needed one day to do nothing and go nowhere, because our next leg is going to be a month of training through Europe, stopping in nine countries. As much as I am looking forward to seeing Europe again, Africa has been the most incredible country and one that I can’t wait to get back to. I would like to thank my brother Chris for making the long journey to meet us here and we really enjoyed spending time with him. After spending three weeks with us, I am sure he is enjoying the quietness of being away from us!!!!! Next stop, the Old Country, Ciao Bella!!

The Big Five

As much as we have enjoyed all the new animals we have encountered along this trip, Kruger’s National Park was where we were hoping to be amazed by the incredible animal life. Kruger has been a protected animal sanctuary for over one hundred years, so all the animals are very comfortable around the constant traffic that parades by them. We, like everyone else, were hoping to see the Big 5, but there were other animals that were just as exciting. The Big 5 are the Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Rhino, and Cape Buffalo. These were classified as the Big 5 because they are the most dangerous to hunt. That is, if you don’t kill them quickly…they will kill you!

Safaris are now called “Game Drives”. I guess it is due to the fact that you drive everywhere, because getting out of the vehicle and walking around is not allowed. The animals are comfortable around a vehicle, and as long as you don’t get out, they don’t realize people are inside of it. You never know when a Lion or Leopard will be hiding in the grass next to the road. In fact, that is actually where we saw our Leopard, and it was amazing how well it can camouflage itself within two feet of the roadway. I had booked our Game Drive with Outlook Safaris and was able to have a true safari vehicle. They are open Land Rovers with elevated seats and canvas tops. They can hold nine passengers and our group were paired up with a nice family from Germany. Kruger, being a National Park, is very regulated on where and when people travel. If you stay in the Park, as we did, you book into one of about a dozen facilities scattered about their 4 million acres. Our compound had about fifty bungalows and about as many campsites. The entire compound is surrounded by electric fence in order to keep out the locals. As we were heading to dinner our first night, we saw a hyena patrolling the fence line looking in on all the easy prey!!

Days start early here, around 5:00 AM. The gates to the Park and the compounds open at 5:30 AM, and the best viewing is usually in the morning before the temperature gets too hot. We would normally go out for about four hours and then head back for breakfast. During the middle of the day we would usually rest, walk around the compound, or shop at their main store. The afternoon drive started about 3:00 PM and lasted until 6:30, when the Gates to the Park and the Compounds were locked down. Anyone found still in the Park would be severely fined or left to be dealt with by the locals!! Dinner usually started around 8:00, and our group had a private dining area which our guides set up and where they made all of the meals. Dinner was a fun time to recount the day, share animal stories, and talk about the next day’s itinerary. We were usually in bed by 10:00 PM, trying to get enough sleep to be ready to go the next morning.
It didn’t take long before we saw four out of the Big 5 and a few other great animals. The Lion was the hold out and it took five drives before we saw a pair lounging in the grass getting ready for the night’s hunt. The best animal scenes we had were the hippos in their pond and two male elephants fighting each other. There was a covered/protected walkway down to a pond that had about twenty hippos in it. We stayed there about thirty minutes and really enjoyed watching them in their natural environment. The two elephants that were fighting were about one hundred yards away from the road in a large opening and were seeing who could push the other one around. During our four days, we saw lots of elephants, zebras, giraffes, several types of antelope, Cape buffalo, wilder beast, warthogs, monkeys, baboons, and rhinos. It was great to see all of these animals, some of which are extremely endangered, in such a natural and safe environment. South Africa takes great pride in its Game Parks and it shows. Our next stop Cairo, Egypt.